TUESDAY 18 OCTOBER, ALCALA DE HERNES (END OF VACATION IN SIGHT)

TUESDAY 18 OCTOBER, ALCALA DE HERNES (END OF VACATION IN SIGHT)

Sleep has been a bit evasive; I have been battling a sinus thing and have found this fabulous remedy called Coldina, recommended by a pharmacist in Vilalba. It was like a miracle, cleared up the runny nose, sore throat from the drip….gone etc, etc. I am bringing some of this stuff home! I haven’t even had floppy ear drums! Unfortunately when I finish taking it all the problems return and I think it may be sinus infection. The Coldina keeps it at bay, so I will wait till I get home to deal with it.

Had a really nice breakfast and checked out. Paul was so incensed that we had had the same problem as 4 years ago, that he asked to speak to the Manager. I snuck out to the car and let him vent. The Director was most apologetic and claimed that lack of funds was causing a lot of problems. Paul told him he understood, but a bottle of bleach for the showers would really help! No answer to that!! We went back down to the town as the Diocesan Museum has a couple of pictures by El Greco and Zurbaran that I wanted to see, but alas the museum is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays! I guess I will not bother to come back. The cathedral is huge, with pillars and ceilings that are beyond belief in their size. Cheryl asked what was the purpose of this and I had no answer. This is a small provincial town which has a castle that housed Bishops and a Cathedral which is huge. Who knows what went on in the minds of the ruling masses in those times. The little people only mattered in that they were souls to save and their lives and comfort were of little consequence. Off to Alcala de Henares.

The Parador is only 2 years old and has been built in a 17^th building. The mix of old and modern has been accomplished beautifully. You can still see they old Mudejar influenced walls right next to the very modern addition. The Spanish do this so well! It is very harmonious. The rooms are so modern they need a cheat sheet to help you work the blinds and lights, but the rooms are very comfortable. We had commented before about the Plaza in Elizondo where they took down the old Kiosko (as they call it) and put up bus stops, but Marcos, one of Asun’s sons said he like the old with the new. It made us look at it differently. This Parador is similar in a way, old and new combined. I think I like it!

We went down town to explore, and even though we had lived only a few miles from here, I don’t think we knew just how lovely Alcala is. The University was founded here in 1508! The buildings are lovely and Cheryl was in 7 th heaven with all the shops! Compared to last night in quite dead Suguenza, this place is hopping! We had some tapas and wine, walked around a bit and went back for reading/ naps!

We went out after siesta to explore some more and visited a tapas bar recommended by Guillermo Muy rico! Gracias Guillermo! Jane

 Paul: I suspect that this will be our last post to the blog from Spain and that the final day's activities and mad dash to the Madrid airport with summary comments from everyone will be made from the USA to wrap up. Also, the sorting and posting of photos to my FLICKR.com account will be done from Florida. I only succeeded in a few photos as our internet connections were not strong and most of the time the upload of pics presented error notices without success.

MONDAY 17 OCTOBER, SIGUENZA

MONDAY, 17 OCTOBER, SIGUENZA, SPAIN,10.46pm

Busy day today. Had a really good breakfast in the Monestario de Piedras and decided to go for our hike through the park. I don’t think Paul and Cheryl realized how many steps were involved, but I digress!  We entered the parquet at about 10:15 and were immediately ambushed by photographers. I would like to say it was our celebrity that attracted them but alas they were only the park photographers trying to make a living. We duly posed with cheesy grins and then the guy with the owl approached us. Yes! An owl!  A beautiful, beautiful owl, big too! I got to hold him and duly grinned again with great delight for the camera. You just know that Paul is going to buy these!

We entered the long slog down the hill to the waterfalls. I was  a bit concerned after Paul’s recent face-plant, and Cheryl’s dicky knees, but everyone survive the first descent. We walked around and climbed steps and viewed such beautiful scenery that I was almost beautified out after about 30 minutes! Ron and Sandy, do you remember when Paul pushed away from the table last year and said “ I am sick of eating” ?, well I was just about on overload this morning! The waterfalls were just stunning and the walk beautiful. See I just used that word again! It was wonderful. If anyone gets the chance to come here, this is a must see experience. The difficulties with finding reception and bars notwithstanding, the climbing of steps and assaulting hills,  listening to the puffing and panting of my companions, painful as it was, was worth the effort and we all survived as mature and decrepit as we are!!! Just terrific.

Paul was ready to wimp out, but Cheryl and I wanted to see the raptor show. They have the wonderful hawks and owls and falcons and they put on a show. Again, at the expense of being redundant, terrific. It wasn’t even noon, checkout time. Talk about overload!

We eventually left this little piece of paradise just as all the day trippers were arriving.  Success! We headed on down to Siguenza, only about 70 miles, but we came by some back roads and took our time. We got here about 2PM and asked a gal posting  posters about a good place to eat and she directed us to a good restaurant. After a leisurely lunch we headed up to the castle of Siguenza which is the Parador. We have a lovely room, but unfortunately it is the same room as 4 years ago and the shower is just as moldy now as it was then! We summoned housekeeping and it was taken care of. It is an uncomfortable feeling sitting in the sitting room listening to someone scrubbing your shower, but damn it, we complained about this 4 years ago and it they haven’t got it right by now it is not my problem!

This castle is very old and quite spectacular, with crenellated walls, towers and central courtyard with gardens, It was the fortress of bishops ,when bishops warranted such things. It sits above the town and is spectacular. Why did the shower have to be moldy?? Cheryl  is about a half a mile away even though she is on  the same floor. Anyway, having had quite full day already, naps and reading were called for. (naps for the younger more decrepit ones and reading for me). We met at six in the bar and had drinkies. Cheryl and I tried to find a way up to the towers and walls to walk around (Paul wimped out again) but reception was uncooperative so we went exploring on our own, got nowhere! They are not very friendly in this Parador, I think this will be our last visit here. Moldy showers and surly staff will put me off everytime!

Off down the hill to explore a little and buy water, Pacheran, and bleach, because I am just not happy with that shower! We had a drink and some snacks and headed back to our rooms, we were pretty tired by this time even though it was early by Spanish standards. The town was  quiet by this time so we did not feel too bad about going up to our rooms to chill out. So here we are, clean shower (finally) a nice bubble bath and in bed  by 11 PM . I am done!

We have only 2 days left. Off to Alcala tomorrow for a couple of days and then back to the USA. I could get used to this travelling thing. Having a great time. More tomorrow.

SUNDAY, 16 OCTOBER SOUTH OF ZARAGOZA AT THE MONASTERIO DE PIEDRA

Tearful goodbyes as the Sunday morning crowd was meandering through all the streets to the ‘square’ church. Marcos and sons were Asun’s as we gave her the leftover food from the house. The clouds burning off rapidly and the valley was full of sun as we drove to Irurita. We took the old back road out of town to show Cheryl the Mirador del Baztan and a photo opp for the entire valley view. Then we pressed on until our coffee stop in the town of Olite where there is a fully restored castle from 1200 and a Parador. Lunch was nothing spectacular a ways south of Zaragoza. We made to the Monesterio at 5:00PM.

This place is amazing. We have walked miles just trying to figure out where everything is, and that is just in the hotel! We walked in the door with our luggage and there was a 25 foot wide hallway with 40 ft arched ceilings and it seemed about a mile long! It took us forever to find reception, which was down 2 floors! No signs for reception or any other advisory notices. Paul said he watched two room attendants with 6 foot dust mops make to passes each to cover the wide corridors together. Huge falls well short of an accurate description!

The monastery was originally built from 1194 to 1218. Only 23 years, and the place is huge. Check it out on-line it would take too long to give all the details here. The monks lived here for over 700 years before being driven out finally In 1835. We toured the old part of the monastery after we arrived and tomorrow we will walk the park which has lots of interesting waterfalls. Right now we are grabbing a bite to eat in the cafeteria. We are pretty pooped as we have been travelling all day. More later

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 15 ELIZONDO

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 15, ELIZONDO

Friday’s activities will definitely ring a bell with Ron & Sandy Hand. We rejoined Maite and Juan Mi in the main plaza and of course saw several old and new friends with just standing there. Some minor trinket shopping before heading the Pamplona turnoff at Mugaire opposite the Bertiz National Forest Park. Mugaire is the home of Maite and you  can tell by how she describe the various of her childhood friends. We at the same resturante that we had dinner with Asun with Ron & Sandy. Ron will remember the pork chops and fries which did not fail to excel  again. Right everyone had menu of the day and then we split. Jane, Cheryl and Paul headed to the French border shops at Danchanarrea and then to the Zugurramurdi witches caves. Cheryl had never been to the caves back in 1971 and was duly impressed that she had missed such an adventure. Took pictures of the Gorramendi base turnoff which now has a proper highway number within Navarra province. Surprisingly good road condition without the Tumpane contractor road repairs when the base was open. We had a quiet supper back at the house in Elizondo before the bedtime antics of a flying cockroach the size of a hummingbird in Cheryl’s/Carol’s room. Bug spray failed to do the trick so they slept with sheets tucked up around their necks all night. The laughing and jumping around was recounted over coffee and toast at great length this Saturday morning.

In fact this morning has been the first day we had brilliant sunshine and not Scotch mist /grey clouds to begin the day(s). As you know we have had wonderful weather but when clear overnight in the valley it fills with marshmallow like clouds until the sun can burn off the excess moisture about mid day after which we have brilliant sunshine until the next morning’ clouds repeat the cycle. So our last full day promises nothing but sunshine. Dave and crowd are off to Pamplona to see the city with Nekane and Delores a venture we did with Ron & Sandy 4 years ago. While we are heading into San Sebastian with Cheryl.

Just to set everyone’s mind at rest, Paul has suffered no side effects from his face plant! The muddy pants washed up just fine, and his ego is restored!

Well we are off to San Seb, more later. We are going to stop first and say goodbye to Juan Mi and Maite and Alberto as they as setting off back to Malaga today, with a stop in Madrid with the Tios.

We had a terrific day in San Sebastian. The weather was perfect. We walked down the Avenida and came upon a peaceful demo/parade. Quite a long parade, asking for ETA to be legalized and recognition of the Basque country,(at least I think that is what it was). We continued toward the bay front and sauntered along in the beautiful sunshine. On the City Hall there was a banner saying “No to ETA. Human Rights and unity in Peace” ( and again, I think that is right.) So even here they are conflicted in what is best for everyone.

We headed for the parte vieja (old town) to revisit some old haunts. We found the tigre bar (Paul was really pleased about that!)  and had some spicy mussels and wine. We continued on and had some wonderful pintxos (that’s tapas up here)  for lunch. The place was packed with people strolling around having a lovely Saturday in a lovely town on a gorgeous day. We did a mini-old town crawl beginning with the plaza (old bull ring) 4 each sampler pintxos next to the old Potatoes Bravas bar. Then we found the original Tigres bar and also had mushrooms in there as well. Off to the backstreets and Bar Martinez for the deep fried green mini-peppers. Ultimately we each had an ice cream cone as we headed back for the garage in the underground garage. Next was Mount Igeldo to see the panaroma of San Sebastian.

THURSDAY, 14 October ELIZONDO

What can I say about Thursday? It started out calmly enough, with breakfast and the usual chaos of six adults getting ready for a day of activities. We were meeting Asun, Juan Mi and Maite at 11AM for a trip to Zarauz and lunch in Getaria. Both towns are west of San Sebastian and we all used to go there back in the day. (40 odd years ago)   Paul, Cheryl and I tried to find somewhere to post the blog and then went to Asun’s apartment. When we got there I looked at the other couple standing there talking to them in total shock! Ana Gomez and her husband Peter, who were visiting from Denmark! How is that for coincidence?  We knew Ana from the early days in Elizondo and had met Peter after she married him. Talk about an old school reunion!  After lots of exclamations of delight, hugs and kisses we decided to meet up later, at our senior rental pad/house/casa! Then we set off in three cars for the coast.

Years ago it used to take us about 2/3 hours to get past San Sebastian and drive the twisty old coast road. Did I say 2 or 3 hours? Of course that would be for normal people, we were young and lead footed and used to have competitions to see who would get there first! Now it only takes about an hour, with the new roads. The coast road is much prettier, but slow!

Our first stop was Zarauz. They always had fabulous waves and a lovely beach, but Maite wanted to visit this bar/restaurant where a very famous Spanish chef has his headquarters. Karlos Arguinano is always on TV cooking shows, and Maite really wanted a photo with him! He wasn’t there. Damn! Interestingly  enough, Paul and I had eaten in that restaurant on our first trip back in 2000. It is a terrific place right on the beach, in a castle-like building which is quite impressive. Anyway there was no luck there, so we had a beer and headed out again, about 12 km down the coast.

Getaria is a small fishing village where everyone comes to eat fresh fish. There used to be lots of places right in the harbor to eat, but there is only one left, so we headed up the steps to find a restaurant in the old town. Asun then told us she had never been this far up the coast before!  We were all stunned! I know she goes on day excursions with her friends now, but I don’t think she travelled very far before Miguel died. She was perfectly happy in Elizondo. I know she and Miguel had been to Italy to visit their daughter Ana and her family and down south on vacation, but she had never been to Zarauz or Getaria. She liked them very much!

We visited the church which like all churches in Spain is quite impressive, but this one has a floor which slopes upward towards the altar! Quite dizzy making. There has been habitation here since the 2^nd century BC, then the Romans came and went and things grew and expanded. They are doing some excavations and discovering lots of Roman buildings. Like everywhere else along the coast, not as many fishing boats. Used to be they were mending nets and were really busy, but I do not know if this is because of the economy or strict fishing regulations. It is hard to tell and no one is telling us!

Lunch was, as always, terrific. You can tell that this is Jane writing because if it was Paul, there would be a detailed description of the menu! As you can imagine with 10 people around a table, we have a party wherever we go.

Then we set off back home, because we were having a big dinner at Larraldea (our house).  Twelve people around a table eating and drinking and talking in different languages! Crazy fun. Listening to one conversation in Spanish and hearing a fragment in English which intrigues you can make for a hectic evening! Asun brought her world famous tortilla de patatas, Maite brought salad and tomatoes from her sister’s garden, cheese, chorizo. Asun brought chistorra (a fabulous local sausage). There was bread and desserts and fruit and lots of laughter. It was a great evening with old friends. I am exhausted! Paul is still in bed at 10AM and I must keep up with this blog or I will forget all the interesting details. For instance, Dave had texted Ana (who he thought was in Copenhagen) to tell her that we were in Elizondo. What we didn’t know was that she and Peter were in Germany en route for here! We are all such world travelers as Paul Murray has alluded to!

We see that there are a few people following us, but no-one has posted comments. Is the blog easy to use? Are you having trouble posting? Let us know. Bye for now, more later. Jane